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Sunday, 18 September 2011

Field-report: night-life - forro [by Anna]

Ok maybe it's time we cut the sentimental crap and write something about Jericoacoara, or Jeri, as everyone calls it. Let's start with the night life! Yesterday we did some field-research - gotta know what to recommend our guests, right?

Like in other small Brazilian resorts, there is normally one big party that takes place at a different venue each night. It's not too difficult to find out what happens and where, as there are people walking around with big signs announcing parties. Jeri, being a rustic place, has parties with traditional music - like samba and forro (pronounced very close to [for whore] but don't be alarmed!). So Saturday night is a forro night.  See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forró if you want to know more about it.

Knowing that the action kicks off late here, we were out of the door (the gate) around 1:30 a.m. The forro place had a small cover-fee (5 BRL/2EUR/16NOK/90RUB). There was a live band and the place was half-full, with quite a few couples dancing, around 95% locals, so quite authentic yeah. Actually it reminded us of the Dirty Dancing the movie, remember, where Baby comes in to the place where the stuff is dancing? Anyhow, we stayed a bit and headed out to look for other alternatives.

Jeri has five streets so after a bit of walking we found where the international crowd was hanging out. There is a place right next to the beach with modern main-stream music and a dance-floor, open till 4 a.m. each night of the week! There is a dozen of movable stands with all sorts of caipirinhas made of fresh fruits and quite a good selection of liquor and even wine sold per glass! We went traditional and got two lime caipirinhas paying 6 (!!!) reals for two! That is 3 BRL for one caipirinha (1,3EUR/10NOK/50RUB) and there is nothing like the Scandinavian 4 ml of cachaça in it, I'm telling you! The price was a pleasant surprise as despite what many people think, Brazil is not a very cheap country and in big cities one caipirinha costs up to 15 BRL (6,3EUR/50NOK/260RUB). Naturally, you cannot enter the bar with a drink bought outside though.


Around 3 a.m. the crowd started getting thin and everyone headed back to the forro place. So did we. The bar was very full now, a lot of people dancing and the ambiance had heated up. We hit the dance-floor and didn't have to wait too long to be invited by multiple locals willing to teach us to dance forro! The band stopped playing at 4 a.m. and we shuffled home, Marina went to bed and I used an opportunity to go online, as the fastest connection here seems to be at night.

We'll return with more night-life reports!

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